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[sticky post] Apologies

When I'm doing these Camino posts, I sometimes make mistakes, and on this LiveJournal (fossilfreak) they don't let me edit, or delete.  Hence, three misses on the To Los Arcos post, and another one in Pamplona. I imagine there will be more. If you're trying to read this, just skip those... eventually I get it right. 
There was THUMPING that woke me up at night, but I managed to get to sleep until 5:47.


I had breakfast with Tim&Linda and Nancy&Doug. I also talked to the Philipinos, Roberto and Mary Jo, who were planning to stay in Viana this night. I thought I would never see them again, but I did, in Burgos.
My feet were really hurting... the little toenails were digging into their toes. I decided I shouldn't walk this day, but take the bus to Logroño. Doug and Nancy were also planning to take the bus and get off at Viana to walk the rest of the way. Doug had a bad foot, so walked slowly, but wanted to do the Camino and finish it. We waited at the bus stop where the funny little man had told us, right outside the hotel. It felt like we were on the wrong side... I have looked at the map now and understand, but I was really turned around. This was the 8:50 bus. Michael walked past, only going to Viana

Early Morning Start


I took some pictures from the bus. We passed through little villages. "Se Vende" (for sale) signs seemed to be everywhere.

Se Vende

Doug and Nancy got off where they planned. I, on the other hand, decided to get off too early in Logrono, and then I tried to get back on, but was OK, and the driver almost went off with my day pack. I think all the passengers and the driver thought "stupid American." I was about a mile from the civic center, across from the University. I thought if I kept walking the way I was going, I would be sure to get into the right area eventually. And I was right. I got to the Cathedral in time for 10:00 Mass. (Where I cried.) Then I toured the Cathedral.

Logrono

Aha!

DSC00271

St. James Peregrino, Logrono Cathedral

Catedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda, Logrono


I walked on to the Iglesia Santiago, back on the Camino. Outside in the Plaza de Santiago there's a huge "game" with dice for benches. I later found out it's a version of Snakes and Ladders, "Juega de Oca" (Game of the Geese.) I bought a small one to bring home. It's about the pilgrimage, and if you land on some cities you get to move on, on others you have to lose a turn or go back.

There's a lot of Santiago information inside the church. I got my sello there, but put it on sideways.
I believe they found a Christian burial near Santiago. I do not actually believe it's St. James buried there, though. If your country is overrun by Moors, it is really helpful to have an Apostle on your side.  And the pilgrimage probably helped with the defeat of the Moors.

English Corner

Juego de Oca, Logrono

DSC00296

History of Compestela

Iglesia de Santiago, Logroño

I was beginning to be a little desperate for a potty stop, but had a hard time finding the hotel. I had the map on the iPad, but forgot, of course.  With a bit of back and forth, though, I found it. Luckily, they let me check in early. My luggage hadn't even come yet.

Then I went out to look at the three churches I missed, and only found two of them, both locked. I went into the Mercado San Blas, and was a put a bit off by the suckling pigs and the pig's head.


I found a pharmacy and got two sizes of Compeed to help my feet. I had a zorropito with peppers and who knows what for lunch. Roni discovered an article that talked about these, and it turns out I stopped at a gourmet cafe! <a href = "http://youngadventuress.com/2012/09/pincho-of-the-week-zorropito.html">Well, a gourmet bar.</a>

Coming back, I ran into Nancy and Doug, who were having a beer. I had a rioja wine. (Logrono is the capital of Rioja.) My luggage was at the hotel by then.

Logroño Street

Walkers outside the Cultural Center

The Drunken Duck

1:25

Iglesia de San Bartolome, Logrono

Mural

Modern Logrono

Bubbles!

Cathedral

Sky

Smokestack

I had some fairly lame food next door to the hotel (I think it's part of the hotel), a bocatillo with fish and hot pepper, tortilla, beer, and then went for postcards. I ended up back at the cathedral which was open again, so I said my rosary there. I saw the Y crucifixion and on the way back, saw Doug and Nancy!  He told me about Moorish balconies.

While I was looking at the huge brick smokestack that used to belong to the tobacco factory I nearly knocked over a glass wall. I went down the block to Deutsche bank and used the ATM, which even gave me my euros in usable denominations!

I lanced a blister. We'll see how this goes.

My Room

Sellos
5.6 miles, 77.5 total. (This is less than I was claiming in my journal.)

FB post
I took the bus at 0850 but got off one stop too soon... So now I can say I've been lost in Logrono as well as Cuzco. Last night was a minimalist day, today it's a palace, as you can see. On my 2.5 mile meander, I went to Mass in the Cathedral, wept a bit, took scads of pictures but couldn't find a sello, then went past a huge game of pilgrim chutes and ladders outside the Iglesia de Santiago. I did find a stamp there and put it sideways, oh well. It's too damp outside to take this iPad for pictures. I'm glad they let me check in this early (I got lost again) for the sake of the potty break. Will venture out for lunch eventually.
...
3:18 and I'm in for the day, though will probably venture out for dinner. I went down a nearby street with a lot of cafés, stopped in one for a zorropito, which is apparently a hot dog bun stuffed with something. I don't know what I ordered but it was good. Found a pharmacie and got Compeed stuff, and then went looking for the three churches I had missed, past the art museum and wine museum. Thought I might stop at the latter on my way back, but didn't. I was looking at postcards but the woman was eager to close for siesta. I stopped in the San Blas market... The little pig and the pig's head were off-putting. I found two of the churches, both closed, and then wanted to go back to the cathedral just in case I could find a sello. It was closed, too, so I guess I was really lucky this morning. Then coming back, the couple who went halfway on the bus this morning saw me passing the bar where they were sitting so I came in and had a glass of wine... This IS Rioja, wine country, after all. And then I took my courage in hand and tackled the ATM (Deutsche Bank) and it was a piece of cake, so I should now be set till Burgos.
With the narrow roads I am reminded of South America, but it's so nice to be able to drink the water, eat the (delicious) food without worrying about where it came from, and flush the toilets! I am really liking Spain!
What is the Camino de Santiago about, you ask? Well, in the 9th century a tomb was discovered in what is now Santiago, and the abbot determined that it was St. James, the friend of Jesus. (You are allowed to be skeptical here.) So people came from all over Europe to admire it. And they put up with a lot more than we do today, bandits and wolves and nowhere to lay their heads. Kings and Queens and bishops and saints, (St. Francis, for instance), as well as the common folk, came and came.
Then in the 19th century or so, the practice fell off until the 1920s, and in modern times there are waymarks (scallop shells, or yellow arrows, or signposts) as well as more and more hostels, inns, and hotels to help the pilgrims. In 2013, there were 215,880 pilgrims who received their certificate at the end. This doesn't count the people who do it in stages. Why? Because. Many, like my super walker friends, do it for the walk. Many, like me, do it for spiritual reasons. So that's what I'm doing here (with a lot of tourism and a bit of geocaching on the side.)
Kate Berry I'm so enjoying your travelogue. Thank you for explaining the pilgrims' walk to us!
JoAnn DeFuentes Skidgel I'm impressed with your courage and "continue on" attitude. Enjoy and take care of yourself. Thoughts and prayers are with you.

Lenore Justman It sounds like you're feeling better. I knew about the pilgrimage in a vague sort of way, mostly because of the shells. Go with God.
Charles Spinks I am here because i believe the Camino called me..tapped me on the shoulder and said....YOU...it's your turn....come walk with me....hopefully when and if i reach Santiago, i will know the reason for walking. Today though, nearly 24 miles was really a tough day for sure....will see what tomorrow brings.
Marie Z. Juraco Hodgins Thank you for the history of the Camino. I knew nothing about it but, thanks to you, I'm learning a bit. It is a good day when we learn something. Take care
Roni Yarnot-Krajeski I looked up zorropito and found this story: <a href = "http://youngadventuress.com/.../pincho-of-the-week..." >Pincho of the Week: Zorropito</a>...and she found the zorropito in Logrono!
Kate Berry You'd mentioned the tortillas there in another post. I remember them so fondly from my time in Spain, and how surprised I was at their difference. If you have another, please share a picture of it!

Ana Delia Pierman I love Spain Jan. Next time you must go to my city Zaragoza and say hello to the Virgen del Pilar. Have you tried the jamon serrano? La Rioja yes excellent wine.


Ana Delia Pierman Kate if you are referring to tortilla de patata so easy to make
...
One more update from Logrono... I was screamingly hungry at 6 which is too early for dinner in Spain so I settled on some stuff in a cafe. OK, but not great. Then I went to buy postcards, now that I have stamps, and the Cathedral was open so I went in and said a Rosary. Then I spied Nancy and Doug again so chatted with them awhile and came back here, soaked my feet, lanced one blister and bandaged my tiny toes, and we'll see. I would like to do the hard walk tomorrow and look for a geocache, but I might ride the bus partway with D&N and walk the rest of the way. We'll see what the feet say tomorrow.
See that nice white linen? (Yesterday's picture) I started off the day with a nosebleed. Fortunately, it woke me up in time, and I didn't ruin the bedding.

Breakfast included eggs & bacon and a lesson in coffee machines. "Americano" is not what I want... that's an espresso.

I was looking forward to an easier walk today. It was pretty good, actually. I started off for the wine fountain. On the way I saw The Forge, which has lovely things. I asked for stamps at the edge of town, close to Irache, but no luck. They weren't coming to this remote part of Spain until Thursday... and today was Tuesday. Oh, well. I was a little afraid that I was off the trail, but the gentleman assured me I was going right.

Camino de Santiago

Turnoff to Irache Winery

Forge


And then, the wine fountain!! The monastery/winery loads it up every day with 100 liters of their red wine. (Which is kind of raw, but hey, it's free.) "Pilgrim: if you want to arrive in Santiago with strength and vitality, have some of this great wine and voyage in happiness." They do ask you not to be greedy.. "Please let the ones after you enjoy their swing."

I had emptied one of my water bottles (into the other one, a good California girl doesn't pour water out on the ground!) and put about 2" of wine into it, which I enjoyed on the balcony of my room in Los Arcos, with a trail mix bar.

There's a webcam at that link, from 8 to 8 Spanish time, which is 9 hours ahead of Pacific time.

I suppose one should actually drink out of the shell. But hey, I wanted to enjoy my wine later. The monastery has a museum I'd have loved to see, but it's not open on Tuesdays, nor could I get a sello (stamp on my pilgrim passport.)

Wine Fountain

Wine Fountain

Monastery.





And then, I just kept walking. At Villamayor de Monjardin (is that "big town of my garden?") I was just delighted that I didn't have to walk up that hill!!

I saw a Moorish fountain, and helped a guy keep his balance as he tied his shoes in the mud. I saw sheep, and wondered if Tim and Linda noticed. I don't think they did, but later they took my picture as a shepherdess.

I noticed a sign for a Bronze Age Burial. Knowing a smattering of Spanish is helpful. In this spot were 35 people, mostly juveniles.

No Dogs
Later I saw the same sort of sign but with a person pooping. I was too tired to take the picture.


Rock Ridges

Castle de San Esteban




Azqueta

Artichokes

Fuente de los Moros

Romanesque Church Tower

San Andres Church, Villamayor de Monjardin

Sheep!!

On the Road

Garden

Bronze Age burial


Eduardo has a "mobil cafe" which is good, since there's not much else along the way. The problem is, of course, no bathroom. I don't think I stopped at this one, though I did stop at one farther along the Way.

Eduardo&apos;s Mobile Cafe

Camino Way

And On and On....

Grapes

Nuts

Casa de la Abuela
Yay Grandma!

When I got to Los Arcos, I wasn't finding the Hotel Monaco so I asked a woman with a stroller. My accent caused her some trouble, but she figured out what I was asking and pointed the way. Gracias, gracias!

There was a funny little man at the desk, which was on what I would call the second floor, in Europe it's the first floor. (One flight of stairs up, anyway!) He carted my luggage up to the room. (Most people did. I really appreciated this.) He explained that I had to wait a few minutes for hot water to actually get there. No problem.

There was a balcony, so after my shower I sat out there (nearly freezing. It was getting late in the year) with my wine and my granola bar. Yum.

I went out and found some stamps across the plaza. The woman was all discombobulated, but with help from the gentleman, I got stamps.

I had dinner (in the hotel, I suppose) with Linda&Tim. Doug&Nancy came by, but no Rose&Ken. It was paella & salmon with steamed veg instead of french fries. Yum.

And then I went to a fantastic Pilgrim's Mass. I went to a lot of Masses in Spain, and noted some differences. No kneeling pads, for instance. My spoiled American knees certainly noticed that. There were no altar servers, not even at the Sunday masses.
Here, I certainly noticed all the gold, the gold the Conquistadores stole from the Incas and Aztecs.

View From My Balcony

Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos

Mass

DSC00244

DSC00246

St. James prayer card

My Facebook post:
I went to the 8:00 mass at the Iglesia de Santa Maria which has to be one of the most beautiful churches I've ever been to. It was exciting to see all the different people from around the world participating, each in our own language. After Mass, Father called up all the pilgrims (he'd mentioned us during the mass, some things I can pick up in Spanish, and gave out cards in our own language with the pilgrim blessing on it. There were a lot of Koreans and Germans, Italians, English, Portuguese (she was from Brazil) and the Spanish speakers. Therefore we could read along when he blessed us. He pointed out some of the features of the church, but I would have enjoyed having more time to poke around. :D. I left dinner early and was right behind some Philipinos at this hotel.

The Philipinos live in Los Angeles. I saw them again in Burgos.


Back in the room, I spent too much time on Facebook. I planned to bus to Logrono the next day, as my feet were really miserable.


13.7 miles. 71.9 total.

Tags:

See that nice white linen? (Yesterday's picture) I started off the day with a nosebleed. Fortunately, it woke me up in time, and I didn't ruin the bedding.

Breakfast included eggs & bacon and a lesson in coffee machines. "Americano" is not what I want... that's an espresso.

I was looking forward to an easier walk today.  It was pretty good, actually. I started off for the wine fountain. On the way I saw The Forge, which has lovely things. I asked for stamps at the edge of town, close to Irache, but no luck. They weren't coming to this remote part of Spain until Thursday... and today was Tuesday. Oh, well. I was a little afraid that I was off the trail, but the gentleman assured me I was going right.

Camino de Santiago

Turnoff to Irache Winery

Forge

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<div>See that nice white linen? (Yesterday&#39;s picture) I started off the day with a nosebleed. Fortunately, it woke me up in time, and I didn&#39;t ruin the bedding.</div><div>
Breakfast included eggs &amp; bacon and a lesson in coffee machines. &quot;Americano&quot; is not what I want... that&#39;s an espresso.</div><div>
I was looking forward to an easier walk today. &nbsp;It was pretty good, actually. I started off for the wine fountain. On the way I saw <a href="http://www.laforjadeayegui.com/">The Forge</a>, which has lovely things. I asked for stamps at the edge of town, close to Irache, but no luck. They weren&#39;t coming to this remote part of Spain until Thursday... and today was Tuesday. Oh, well. I was a little afraid that I was off the trail, but the gentleman assured me I was going right.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614332982/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Camino de Santiago"><img alt="Camino de Santiago" height="240" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5770/22614332982_b7393b6113_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22439925410/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Turnoff to Irache Winery"><img alt="Turnoff to Irache Winery" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/574/22439925410_83af3fa647_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614267952/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Forge"><img alt="Forge" height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5696/22614267952_4f75a1bb1a_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a= en="" enoturismo="" href="http: www.irache.com=">

And then, the <a href="http://www.irache.com/en/enoturismo/fuente-del-vino.html/">wine fountain!!</a> The monastery/winery loads it up every day with 100 liters of their red wine. (Which is kind of raw, but hey, it&#39;s free.) &quot;Pilgrim: if you want to arrive in Santiago with strength and vitality, have some of this great wine and voyage in happiness.&quot; &nbsp;They do ask you not to be greedy.. &quot;Please let the ones after you enjoy their swing.&quot;</div><div>
I had emptied one of my water bottles (into the other one, a good California girl doesn&#39;t pour water out on the ground!) and put about 2&quot; of wine into it, which I enjoyed on the balcony of my room in Los Arcos, with a trail mix bar.</div><div>
There&#39;s a webcam at that link, from 8 to 8 Spanish time, which is 9 hours ahead of Pacific time.</div><div>
I suppose one should actually drink out of the shell. But hey, I wanted to enjoy my wine later. The monastery has a museum I&#39;d have loved to see, but it&#39;s not open on Tuesdays, nor could I get a sello (stamp on my pilgrim passport.)</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22601775326/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Wine Fountain"><img alt="Wine Fountain" height="240" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5636/22601775326_ac01d63b84_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614220692/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Wine Fountain"><img alt="Wine Fountain" height="320" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/592/22614220692_4ff87d0af2_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614190672/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Monastery."><img alt="Monastery." height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5775/22614190672_87109e9dd5_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
And then, I just kept walking. At Villamayor de Monjardin (is that &quot;big town of my garden?&quot;) I was just delighted that I didn&#39;t have to walk up that hill!!</div><div>
I saw a Moorish fountain, and helped a guy keep his balance as he tied his shoes in the mud. I saw sheep, and wondered if Tim and Linda noticed. I don&#39;t think they did, but later they took my picture as a shepherdess.</div><div>
I noticed a sign for a Bronze Age Burial. Knowing a smattering of Spanish is helpful. In this spot were 35 people, mostly juveniles.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22627667455/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="No Dogs"><img alt="No Dogs" height="240" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5832/22627667455_cb984f16e5_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>Later I saw the same sort of sign but with a person pooping. I was too tired to take the picture.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614125202/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Rock Ridges"><img alt="Rock Ridges" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/781/22614125202_76c9dae1e2_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22638850321/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Castle de San Esteban"><img alt="Castle de San Esteban" height="240" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5816/22638850321_17b9589ddc_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22004842334/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Azqueta"><img alt="Azqueta" height="240" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/597/22004842334_292f75f0a8_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22640484055/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Artichokes"><img alt="Artichokes" height="240" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/608/22640484055_edac70a36a_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626854562/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Fuente de los Moros"><img alt="Fuente de los Moros" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5625/22626854562_068e49d03f_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626799962/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Romanesque Church Tower"><img alt="Romanesque Church Tower" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/575/22626799962_5e0d4deb22_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22019140793/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="San Andres Church, Villamayor de Monjardin"><img alt="San Andres Church, Villamayor de Monjardin" height="240" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5661/22019140793_c89743b8ee_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22017486954/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Sheep!!"><img alt="Sheep!!" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5713/22017486954_5b1956b251_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22640099105/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="On the Road"><img alt="On the Road" height="240" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/673/22640099105_9e045745d1_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626702362/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Garden"><img alt="Garden" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5658/22626702362_f8c4cbc787_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22019060243/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Bronze Age burial"><img alt="Bronze Age burial" height="240" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5786/22019060243_5bb8119e32_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
Eduardo has a &quot;mobil cafe&quot; which is good, since there&#39;s not much else along the way. The problem is, of course, no bathroom. I don&#39;t think I stopped at this one, though I did stop at one farther along the Way.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22640050325/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Eduardo&#39;s Mobile Cafe"><img alt="Eduardo&#39;s Mobile Cafe" height="240" src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5629/22640050325_f26af8f684_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614021616/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Camino Way"><img alt="Camino Way" height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5686/22614021616_f79f415969_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22018815463/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="And On and On...."><img alt="And On and On...." height="240" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/690/22018815463_b4b779f616_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626361432/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Grapes"><img alt="Grapes" height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/647/22626361432_b5bdb4c4f6_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22639868355/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Nuts"><img alt="Nuts" height="240" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5771/22639868355_875211eb87_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22017040714/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Casa de la Abuela"><img alt="Casa de la Abuela" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5642/22017040714_6cf5480778_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>Yay Grandma!</div><div>
When I got to Los Arcos, I wasn&#39;t finding the <a href="http://www.hotelmonaco.es/">Hotel Monaco</a> so I asked a woman with a stroller. My accent caused her some trouble, but she figured out what I was asking and pointed the way. Gracias, gracias!</div><div>
There was a funny little man at the desk, which was on what I would call the second floor, in Europe it&#39;s the first floor. (One flight of stairs up, anyway!) He carted my luggage up to the room. (Most people did. I really appreciated this.) He explained that I had to wait a few minutes for hot water to actually get there. No problem.</div><div>
There was a balcony, so after my shower I sat out there (nearly freezing. It was getting late in the year) with my wine and my granola bar. Yum.</div><div>
I went out and found some stamps across the plaza. The woman was all discombobulated, but with help from the gentleman, I got stamps.</div><div>
I had dinner (in the hotel, I suppose) with Linda&amp;Tim. Doug&amp;Nancy came by, but no Rose&amp;Ken. It was paella &amp; salmon with steamed veg instead of french fries. Yum.</div><div>
And then I went to a fantastic Pilgrim&#39;s Mass. I went to a lot of Masses in Spain, and &nbsp;noted some differences. No kneeling pads, for instance. My spoiled American knees certainly noticed that. There were no altar servers, not even at the Sunday masses.</div><div>Here, I certainly noticed all the gold, the gold the Conquistadores stole from the Incas and Aztecs.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22466199786/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="View From My Balcony"><img alt="View From My Balcony" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5750/22466199786_8ec2df5fb1_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22613737336/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos"><img alt="Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos" height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/682/22613737336_b8f85f5159_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626167342/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Mass"><img alt="Mass" height="240" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/596/22626167342_760db729ed_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22650912461/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="DSC00244"><img alt="DSC00244" height="240" src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/775/22650912461_55cdda785a_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22613642426/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="DSC00246"><img alt="DSC00246" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5729/22613642426_13392d5a36_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22304514588/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="St. James prayer card"><img alt="St. James prayer card" height="320" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/736/22304514588_9894634796_n.jpg" width="214" /></a></div><div>
My Facebook post:</div><div><i>I went to the 8:00 mass at the Iglesia de Santa Maria which has to be one of the most beautiful churches I&#39;ve ever been to. It was exciting to see all the different people from around the world participating, each in our own language. After Mass, Father called up all the pilgrims (he&#39;d mentioned us during the mass, some things I can pick up in Spanish, and gave out cards in our own language with the pilgrim blessing on it. There were a lot of Koreans and Germans, Italians, English, Portuguese (she was from Brazil) and the Spanish speakers. Therefore we could read along when he blessed us. He pointed out some of the features of the church, but I would have enjoyed having more time to poke around. :D. I left dinner early and was right behind some Philipinos at this hotel.</i></div><div>
<i>The Philipinos live in Los Angeles. &nbsp;I saw them again in Burgos.</i></div><div>
<i>Back in the room, I spent too much time on Facebook. &nbsp;I plan to bus to Logrono the next day, as my feet are really miserable.</i></div><div>
<i>13.7 miles. 71.9 total.</i></div>
See that nice white linen? (Yesterday's picture) I started off the day with a nosebleed. Fortunately, it woke me up in time, and I didn't ruin the bedding.

Breakfast included eggs & bacon and a lesson in coffee machines. "Americano" is not what I want... that's an espresso.

I was looking forward to an easier walk today.  It was pretty good, actually. I started off for the wine fountain. On the way I saw The Forge, which has lovely things. I asked for stamps at the edge of town, close to Irache, but no luck. They weren't coming to this remote part of Spain until Thursday... and today was Tuesday. Oh, well. I was a little afraid that I was off the trail, but the gentleman assured me I was going right.

Camino de Santiago

Turnoff to Irache Winery

Forge

[Error: Irreparable invalid markup ('<a=>') in entry. Owner must fix manually. Raw contents below.]

<div>See that nice white linen? (Yesterday&#39;s picture) I started off the day with a nosebleed. Fortunately, it woke me up in time, and I didn&#39;t ruin the bedding.</div><div>
Breakfast included eggs &amp; bacon and a lesson in coffee machines. &quot;Americano&quot; is not what I want... that&#39;s an espresso.</div><div>
I was looking forward to an easier walk today. &nbsp;It was pretty good, actually. I started off for the wine fountain. On the way I saw <a href="http://www.laforjadeayegui.com/">The Forge</a>, which has lovely things. I asked for stamps at the edge of town, close to Irache, but no luck. They weren&#39;t coming to this remote part of Spain until Thursday... and today was Tuesday. Oh, well. I was a little afraid that I was off the trail, but the gentleman assured me I was going right.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614332982/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Camino de Santiago"><img alt="Camino de Santiago" height="240" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5770/22614332982_b7393b6113_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22439925410/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Turnoff to Irache Winery"><img alt="Turnoff to Irache Winery" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/574/22439925410_83af3fa647_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614267952/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Forge"><img alt="Forge" height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5696/22614267952_4f75a1bb1a_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a= en="" enoturismo="" href="http: www.irache.com=">

And then, the <a href="http://www.irache.com/en/enoturismo/fuente-del-vino.html/">wine fountain!!</a> The monastery/winery loads it up every day with 100 liters of their red wine. (Which is kind of raw, but hey, it&#39;s free.) &quot;Pilgrim: if you want to arrive in Santiago with strength and vitality, have some of this great wine and voyage in happiness.&quot; &nbsp;They do ask you not to be greedy.. &quot;Please let the ones after you enjoy their swing.&quot;</a=></div><div>
I had emptied one of my water bottles (into the other one, a good California girl doesn&#39;t pour water out on the ground!) and put about 2&quot; of wine into it, which I enjoyed on the balcony of my room in Los Arcos, with a trail mix bar.</div><div>
There&#39;s a webcam at that link, from 8 to 8 Spanish time, which is 9 hours ahead of Pacific time.</div><div>
I suppose one should actually drink out of the shell. But hey, I wanted to enjoy my wine later. The monastery has a museum I&#39;d have loved to see, but it&#39;s not open on Tuesdays, nor could I get a sello (stamp on my pilgrim passport.)</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22601775326/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Wine Fountain"><img alt="Wine Fountain" height="240" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5636/22601775326_ac01d63b84_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614220692/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Wine Fountain"><img alt="Wine Fountain" height="320" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/592/22614220692_4ff87d0af2_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614190672/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Monastery."><img alt="Monastery." height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5775/22614190672_87109e9dd5_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
And then, I just kept walking. At Villamayor de Monjardin (is that &quot;big town of my garden?&quot;) I was just delighted that I didn&#39;t have to walk up that hill!!</div><div>
I saw a Moorish fountain, and helped a guy keep his balance as he tied his shoes in the mud. I saw sheep, and wondered if Tim and Linda noticed. I don&#39;t think they did, but later they took my picture as a shepherdess.</div><div>
I noticed a sign for a Bronze Age Burial. Knowing a smattering of Spanish is helpful. In this spot were 35 people, mostly juveniles.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22627667455/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="No Dogs"><img alt="No Dogs" height="240" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5832/22627667455_cb984f16e5_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>Later I saw the same sort of sign but with a person pooping. I was too tired to take the picture.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614125202/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Rock Ridges"><img alt="Rock Ridges" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/781/22614125202_76c9dae1e2_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22638850321/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Castle de San Esteban"><img alt="Castle de San Esteban" height="240" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5816/22638850321_17b9589ddc_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22004842334/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Azqueta"><img alt="Azqueta" height="240" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/597/22004842334_292f75f0a8_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22640484055/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Artichokes"><img alt="Artichokes" height="240" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/608/22640484055_edac70a36a_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626854562/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Fuente de los Moros"><img alt="Fuente de los Moros" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5625/22626854562_068e49d03f_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626799962/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Romanesque Church Tower"><img alt="Romanesque Church Tower" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/575/22626799962_5e0d4deb22_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22019140793/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="San Andres Church, Villamayor de Monjardin"><img alt="San Andres Church, Villamayor de Monjardin" height="240" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5661/22019140793_c89743b8ee_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22017486954/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Sheep!!"><img alt="Sheep!!" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5713/22017486954_5b1956b251_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22640099105/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="On the Road"><img alt="On the Road" height="240" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/673/22640099105_9e045745d1_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626702362/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Garden"><img alt="Garden" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5658/22626702362_f8c4cbc787_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22019060243/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Bronze Age burial"><img alt="Bronze Age burial" height="240" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5786/22019060243_5bb8119e32_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
Eduardo has a &quot;mobil cafe&quot; which is good, since there&#39;s not much else along the way. The problem is, of course, no bathroom. I don&#39;t think I stopped at this one, though I did stop at one farther along the Way.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22640050325/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Eduardo&#39;s Mobile Cafe"><img alt="Eduardo&#39;s Mobile Cafe" height="240" src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5629/22640050325_f26af8f684_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614021616/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Camino Way"><img alt="Camino Way" height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5686/22614021616_f79f415969_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22018815463/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="And On and On...."><img alt="And On and On...." height="240" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/690/22018815463_b4b779f616_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626361432/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Grapes"><img alt="Grapes" height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/647/22626361432_b5bdb4c4f6_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22639868355/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Nuts"><img alt="Nuts" height="240" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5771/22639868355_875211eb87_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22017040714/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Casa de la Abuela"><img alt="Casa de la Abuela" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5642/22017040714_6cf5480778_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>Yay Grandma!</div><div>
When I got to Los Arcos, I wasn&#39;t finding the <a href="http://www.hotelmonaco.es/">Hotel Monaco</a> so I asked a woman with a stroller. My accent caused her some trouble, but she figured out what I was asking and pointed the way. Gracias, gracias!</div><div>
There was a funny little man at the desk, which was on what I would call the second floor, in Europe it&#39;s the first floor. (One flight of stairs up, anyway!) He carted my luggage up to the room. (Most people did. I really appreciated this.) He explained that I had to wait a few minutes for hot water to actually get there. No problem.</div><div>
There was a balcony, so after my shower I sat out there (nearly freezing. It was getting late in the year) with my wine and my granola bar. Yum.</div><div>
I went out and found some stamps across the plaza. The woman was all discombobulated, but with help from the gentleman, I got stamps.</div><div>
I had dinner (in the hotel, I suppose) with Linda&amp;Tim. Doug&amp;Nancy came by, but no Rose&amp;Ken. It was paella &amp; salmon with steamed veg instead of french fries. Yum.</div><div>
And then I went to a fantastic Pilgrim&#39;s Mass. I went to a lot of Masses in Spain, and &nbsp;noted some differences. No kneeling pads, for instance. My spoiled American knees certainly noticed that. There were no altar servers, not even at the Sunday masses.</div><div>Here, I certainly noticed all the gold, the gold the Conquistadores stole from the Incas and Aztecs.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22466199786/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="View From My Balcony"><img alt="View From My Balcony" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5750/22466199786_8ec2df5fb1_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22613737336/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos"><img alt="Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos" height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/682/22613737336_b8f85f5159_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626167342/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Mass"><img alt="Mass" height="240" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/596/22626167342_760db729ed_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22650912461/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="DSC00244"><img alt="DSC00244" height="240" src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/775/22650912461_55cdda785a_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22613642426/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="DSC00246"><img alt="DSC00246" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5729/22613642426_13392d5a36_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22304514588/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="St. James prayer card"><img alt="St. James prayer card" height="320" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/736/22304514588_9894634796_n.jpg" width="214" /></a></div><div>
My Facebook post:</div><div><i>I went to the 8:00 mass at the Iglesia de Santa Maria which has to be one of the most beautiful churches I&#39;ve ever been to. It was exciting to see all the different people from around the world participating, each in our own language. After Mass, Father called up all the pilgrims (he&#39;d mentioned us during the mass, some things I can pick up in Spanish, and gave out cards in our own language with the pilgrim blessing on it. There were a lot of Koreans and Germans, Italians, English, Portuguese (she was from Brazil) and the Spanish speakers. Therefore we could read along when he blessed us. He pointed out some of the features of the church, but I would have enjoyed having more time to poke around. :D. I left dinner early and was right behind some Philipinos at this hotel.</i></div><div>
<i>The Philipinos live in Los Angeles. &nbsp;I saw them again in Burgos.</i></div><div>
<i>Back in the room, I spent too much time on Facebook. &nbsp;I plan to bus to Logrono the next day, as my feet are really miserable.</i></div><div>
<i>13.7 miles. 71.9 total.</i></div>

Tags:

See that nice white linen? (Yesterday's picture) I started off the day with a nosebleed. Fortunately, it woke me up in time, and I didn't ruin the bedding.

Breakfast included eggs & bacon and a lesson in coffee machines. "Americano" is not what I want... that's an espresso.

I was looking forward to an easier walk today.  It was pretty good, actually. I started off for the wine fountain. On the way I saw The Forge, which has lovely things. I asked for stamps at the edge of town, close to Irache, but no luck. They weren't coming to this remote part of Spain until Thursday... and today was Tuesday. Oh, well. I was a little afraid that I was off the trail, but the gentleman assured me I was going right.

Camino de Santiago

Turnoff to Irache Winery

Forge

[Error: Irreparable invalid markup ('<a=>') in entry. Owner must fix manually. Raw contents below.]

<div>See that nice white linen? (Yesterday&#39;s picture) I started off the day with a nosebleed. Fortunately, it woke me up in time, and I didn&#39;t ruin the bedding.</div><div>
Breakfast included eggs &amp; bacon and a lesson in coffee machines. &quot;Americano&quot; is not what I want... that&#39;s an espresso.</div><div>
I was looking forward to an easier walk today. &nbsp;It was pretty good, actually. I started off for the wine fountain. On the way I saw <a href="http://www.laforjadeayegui.com/">The Forge</a>, which has lovely things. I asked for stamps at the edge of town, close to Irache, but no luck. They weren&#39;t coming to this remote part of Spain until Thursday... and today was Tuesday. Oh, well. I was a little afraid that I was off the trail, but the gentleman assured me I was going right.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614332982/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Camino de Santiago"><img alt="Camino de Santiago" height="240" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5770/22614332982_b7393b6113_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22439925410/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Turnoff to Irache Winery"><img alt="Turnoff to Irache Winery" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/574/22439925410_83af3fa647_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614267952/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Forge"><img alt="Forge" height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5696/22614267952_4f75a1bb1a_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a= en="" enoturismo="" href="http: www.irache.com=">

And then, the <a href="http://www.irache.com/en/enoturismo/fuente-del-vino.html">wine fountain!!</a> The monastery/winery loads it up every day with 100 liters of their red wine. (Which is kind of raw, but hey, it&#39;s free.) &quot;Pilgrim: if you want to arrive in Santiago with strength and vitality, have some of this great wine and voyage in happiness.&quot; &nbsp;They do ask you not to be greedy.. &quot;Please let the ones after you enjoy their swing.&quot;</a=></div><div>
I had emptied one of my water bottles (into the other one, a good California girl doesn&#39;t pour water out on the ground!) and put about 2&quot; of wine into it, which I enjoyed on the balcony of my room in Los Arcos, with a trail mix bar.</div><div>
There&#39;s a webcam at that link, from 8 to 8 Spanish time, which is 9 hours ahead of Pacific time.</div><div>
I suppose one should actually drink out of the shell. But hey, I wanted to enjoy my wine later. The monastery has a museum I&#39;d have loved to see, but it&#39;s not open on Tuesdays, nor could I get a sello (stamp on my pilgrim passport.)</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22601775326/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Wine Fountain"><img alt="Wine Fountain" height="240" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5636/22601775326_ac01d63b84_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614220692/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Wine Fountain"><img alt="Wine Fountain" height="320" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/592/22614220692_4ff87d0af2_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614190672/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Monastery."><img alt="Monastery." height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5775/22614190672_87109e9dd5_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
And then, I just kept walking. At Villamayor de Monjardin (is that &quot;big town of my garden?&quot;) I was just delighted that I didn&#39;t have to walk up that hill!!</div><div>
I saw a Moorish fountain, and helped a guy keep his balance as he tied his shoes in the mud. I saw sheep, and wondered if Tim and Linda noticed. I don&#39;t think they did, but later they took my picture as a shepherdess.</div><div>
I noticed a sign for a Bronze Age Burial. Knowing a smattering of Spanish is helpful. In this spot were 35 people, mostly juveniles.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22627667455/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="No Dogs"><img alt="No Dogs" height="240" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5832/22627667455_cb984f16e5_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>Later I saw the same sort of sign but with a person pooping. I was too tired to take the picture.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614125202/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Rock Ridges"><img alt="Rock Ridges" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/781/22614125202_76c9dae1e2_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22638850321/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Castle de San Esteban"><img alt="Castle de San Esteban" height="240" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5816/22638850321_17b9589ddc_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22004842334/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Azqueta"><img alt="Azqueta" height="240" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/597/22004842334_292f75f0a8_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22640484055/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Artichokes"><img alt="Artichokes" height="240" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/608/22640484055_edac70a36a_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626854562/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Fuente de los Moros"><img alt="Fuente de los Moros" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5625/22626854562_068e49d03f_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626799962/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Romanesque Church Tower"><img alt="Romanesque Church Tower" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/575/22626799962_5e0d4deb22_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22019140793/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="San Andres Church, Villamayor de Monjardin"><img alt="San Andres Church, Villamayor de Monjardin" height="240" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5661/22019140793_c89743b8ee_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22017486954/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Sheep!!"><img alt="Sheep!!" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5713/22017486954_5b1956b251_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22640099105/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="On the Road"><img alt="On the Road" height="240" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/673/22640099105_9e045745d1_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626702362/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Garden"><img alt="Garden" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5658/22626702362_f8c4cbc787_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22019060243/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Bronze Age burial"><img alt="Bronze Age burial" height="240" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5786/22019060243_5bb8119e32_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
Eduardo has a &quot;mobil cafe&quot; which is good, since there&#39;s not much else along the way. The problem is, of course, no bathroom. I don&#39;t think I stopped at this one, though I did stop at one farther along the Way.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22640050325/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Eduardo&#39;s Mobile Cafe"><img alt="Eduardo&#39;s Mobile Cafe" height="240" src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5629/22640050325_f26af8f684_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22614021616/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Camino Way"><img alt="Camino Way" height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5686/22614021616_f79f415969_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22018815463/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="And On and On...."><img alt="And On and On...." height="240" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/690/22018815463_b4b779f616_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626361432/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Grapes"><img alt="Grapes" height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/647/22626361432_b5bdb4c4f6_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22639868355/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Nuts"><img alt="Nuts" height="240" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5771/22639868355_875211eb87_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22017040714/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Casa de la Abuela"><img alt="Casa de la Abuela" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5642/22017040714_6cf5480778_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>Yay Grandma!</div><div>
When I got to Los Arcos, I wasn&#39;t finding the <a href="http://www.hotelmonaco.es/">Hotel Monaco</a> so I asked a woman with a stroller. My accent caused her some trouble, but she figured out what I was asking and pointed the way. Gracias, gracias!</div><div>
There was a funny little man at the desk, which was on what I would call the second floor, in Europe it&#39;s the first floor. (One flight of stairs up, anyway!) He carted my luggage up to the room. (Most people did. I really appreciated this.) He explained that I had to wait a few minutes for hot water to actually get there. No problem.</div><div>
There was a balcony, so after my shower I sat out there (nearly freezing. It was getting late in the year) with my wine and my granola bar. Yum.</div><div>
I went out and found some stamps across the plaza. The woman was all discombobulated, but with help from the gentleman, I got stamps.</div><div>
I had dinner (in the hotel, I suppose) with Linda&amp;Tim. Doug&amp;Nancy came by, but no Rose&amp;Ken. It was paella &amp; salmon with steamed veg instead of french fries. Yum.</div><div>
And then I went to a fantastic Pilgrim&#39;s Mass. I went to a lot of Masses in Spain, and &nbsp;noted some differences. No kneeling pads, for instance. My spoiled American knees certainly noticed that. There were no altar servers, not even at the Sunday masses.</div><div>Here, I certainly noticed all the gold, the gold the Conquistadores stole from the Incas and Aztecs.</div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22466199786/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="View From My Balcony"><img alt="View From My Balcony" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5750/22466199786_8ec2df5fb1_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22613737336/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos"><img alt="Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos" height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/682/22613737336_b8f85f5159_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22626167342/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Mass"><img alt="Mass" height="240" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/596/22626167342_760db729ed_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22650912461/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="DSC00244"><img alt="DSC00244" height="240" src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/775/22650912461_55cdda785a_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22613642426/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="DSC00246"><img alt="DSC00246" height="240" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5729/22613642426_13392d5a36_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22304514588/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="St. James prayer card"><img alt="St. James prayer card" height="320" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/736/22304514588_9894634796_n.jpg" width="214" /></a></div><div>
My Facebook post:</div><div><i>I went to the 8:00 mass at the Iglesia de Santa Maria which has to be one of the most beautiful churches I&#39;ve ever been to. It was exciting to see all the different people from around the world participating, each in our own language. After Mass, Father called up all the pilgrims (he&#39;d mentioned us during the mass, some things I can pick up in Spanish, and gave out cards in our own language with the pilgrim blessing on it. There were a lot of Koreans and Germans, Italians, English, Portuguese (she was from Brazil) and the Spanish speakers. Therefore we could read along when he blessed us. He pointed out some of the features of the church, but I would have enjoyed having more time to poke around. :D. I left dinner early and was right behind some Philipinos at this hotel.</i></div><div>
<i>The Philipinos live in Los Angeles. &nbsp;I saw them again in Burgos.</i></div><div>
<i>Back in the room, I spent too much time on Facebook. &nbsp;I plan to bus to Logrono the next day, as my feet are really miserable.</i></div><div>
<i>13.7 miles. 71.9 total.</i></div>

Tags:

(Try Three: I'm supposed to run it through HTML before I hit post, and this account will neither let me edit nor delete. Sorry about that.)


It had been a week, and I was definitely still in the "what was I thinking?" mode.  I was still upset about the bad wifi, among other things. My little toes hurt, and I'd come up with a small blister.

There was a coffee machine at breakfast and I had a bocadilla which was delicious. I talked to some girls from Nova Scotia and a couple from San Francisco.

I was reluctant to get started but I figured it would be an easy day, with a couple of hills. I figured I could do 14 miles in 6 hours and take a nap. Ha. It took 8 hours walking. It seemed to take a long time before I got to the Puente de Reina bridge!

So many churches weren't open. This saddened me, since the guidebooks talk about the wonders inside, but I couldn't see them.

Iglesia de Crucifijo.

Narrow Street

Peppers

Entry to the Bridge

Puente la Reina

Puente la Reina

Cross

DSC00040

And Down Again

Into Maneru

Shield

And on Out of Maneru

Cemetery

Metal Bull
I was horrified to see a couple walk into a vineyard and steal a bunch of grapes. Not ugly Americans, fortunately, but that's theft.  They say "the Camino provides" but they don't mean foraging from some farmer's income. I went online to protest and it was surprising to me how many people hadn't thought about it, had assumed it was all right. Sorry, folks, blackberries are one thing, grapes something else entirely.

I got caught in some thorns at one point, but fortunately didn't tear my skin, or my skort.

About 8 kilometers (5 miles) into the walk I got to the hilltop village of Cirauqui. I could hear the brass band for quite a distance. They were having some sort of fiesta and the streets are narrow with the stone houses acting as a megaphone. I sat outside the village and had a bit of a snack, just enjoying the music and the day.

Then I wandered in. This village was one of my favorites, even though it is NO WAY ADA compliant. I threaded past the musicians and followed the arrows, through a very confusing maze and through the city hall (where I could have stamped my passport, but I didn't see the place.)

Cirauqui

Cirauqui

Felipe is not the King

The Bridge of the Mill&apos;s Legend

Fiesta Band

Outside of the village, there's a Roman road. Part of it is all broken up and hard to climb down. Charles, from Texas, fell, but was unhurt.  Then the road gets easier, leading to a Roman bridge. Michael was on this stretch, too.

There's a "map of the world" there, as well. Later I was going along a narrow (very narrow) track, and glanced over and saw a STOP sign in the absolute middle of nowhere. I stopped just long enough to take a picture, because there were people behind me and no place to pass. The woman behind me hadn't even seen the sign.  She thought it was funny, too.  What didn't dawn on me for another week or so was that the sign was in English!  As were all the STOP signs I saw!

The World in Plants

Roman Road

Roman Road and Bridge

Roman Bridge

Arrow

Aquaduct

Stop!


In Lorca, I sat on the (closed) church porch steps with Tim&Linda, and ate an apple. They are fast walkers and have walked Burgos to Santiago so they will quit in Burgos this time. They have walked a lot of the world. But, in the fast walking, they don't see stuff, like the map of the world and the stop sign.

Linda and Tim in Lorca

I stopped in Villapuerta for food, and had a sandwich that tasted slightly moldy. I'd already filled my bottle with untreated water, then realized that didn't mean non-potable.

I might be the pilgrim in the skirt, but there was an Asian girl who seemed to have all her worldly goods on her back. She wore a white raincoat all the time and hefted this huge pack. They told her to mail stuff ahead, but she didn't do that till a couple of weeks later. I last saw her in Santiago. She was at the untreated fuente, too.

This Woman was Walking with Everything.

Arne Skov Schmidt

Tired Sunflowers

Pilgrim Weathervane

Eyes, making a Camino Sign

Ermita de San Miguel

Iglesia de Santa Sepulchro

At the Villapuerta cafe, I'd put on the backpack when a gust of wind blew my napkin to the ground. I impressed a young couple at the next table by bending over to get it, and more importantly, getting back up.

I was hopscotching with a French-Canadian cheerful guy named Jocelyn.

Puente Carcel, Estella

San Miguel, Estella

Scallop Balconies

Estella Street

Olive Tree

St. James Matamoros
St. James is either Peregrino (pilgrim) or Matamoros (Moor slayer.)

I got to Estella about 4. What a beautiful hotel!  I got to use the wifi and assure my friends I was alive. (They were concerned, because of the day before. I told them not to worry unless it was 2 days or more.) After that, I came down and asked where I could buy stamps. I should have read the guidebook, because then I would have known that stamps are sold in tobacco shops. Unfortunately, when I asked, I was told they were "finished." I tried two shops, and neither had stamps.

I went out exploring with the iPad so I could show the Facebook peeps. At one time I was taking a picture of the street and a little girl wondered what I was doing. Mama came over to see and I was able to show her the picture. Usually the iPad was off and needed to be turned on before I could do that, but this time I was able to get the picture up right away.

There were steps up to a church on a hill across the street from the hotel, and I climbed up. Of course, the church was closed, but there were nice views. As I finished my explorations, a tired couple came by and were looking for the hotel, so I showed them. (This later turned out to be Doug & Nancy, who had joined up in Pamplona but we hadn't seen them till here.) They went out to visit a bank (Doug had quite a thing about banks) and I hung about in the bar hoping either they, or Tim & Nancy, would turn up so I would have company for dinner.

The Diner

My Bathroom

My Bathroom

Hunger eventually drove me out on the street, and I found the plaza, with lots of cafes. But I didn't want to go sit at a table with strangers. I turned around, and there was the Diner!  It looked like any diner in the U.S.  However, the food was definitely Spanish.  I insisted I was a pilgrim even though I didn't have my credenciale with me, so I could get a pilgrim's menu.  (After this, I learned that anyone can have a pilgrim's menu!)  I had white beans for the first course, chicken cutlet (and fries of course), and fruit cocktail. And wine, of course.

Jocelyn came in with a couple of people and I said to sit with me. They were French, and Jocelyn was the only one with any English, so conversation was fairly limited. At this point, I was still occasionally dipping into French ("oui" instead of "si", for instance, "bonjour", "merci", things like that) and this evening didn't help my linguistic confusion. Anyway, it was a surprising find.

14.0 miles this day. 58.2 total.

------
Facebook postings:
I discovered last night that I would sleep better wearing the thin socks that I took on the airplanes so I wouldn't hit the blisters or bandages on the sheet and wake myself up. This morning the blister was gone, though I haven't dared look tonight. ( I'm thinking that I'm off walking... Pharaoh will be lucky if I take him around the block!).
I was REALLY reluctant to get out of bed this morning, but I knew it was relatively easy, and I planned to get here about 2 so I could have a nice long nap. Oh, well. 14.8 miles in about 8 hours. This includes twice I sat and ate. There are a couple of really high rises, including to the village of Cirauqui, which I really loved. They had a brass band playing in one square, which could be heard for miles. There were a couple of bad descents on rocks and one place that had a giant's staircase that was scary. But it went well, though this last 5 miles into Estella seemed to last forever.
Add about .7 for my little exploration trip to try to buy stamps and take these pictures. The first two are obviously my room.
I am seeing more than many of the better walkers I see often. I saw the map of the world made with trees, for instance, or the STOP sign in the middle of a patch of thorns. (I got caught in some thorns today. Saved my skort and didn't notice I'd been scratched till later. I've found some decent blackberries, not that time, and disapproved of the people who stole grapes from a vineyard.)
I had a bocadilla for breakfast, basically a ham, cheese (the cheese is DELICIOUS!) and pepper sandwich. Loved it. It also kept me going.
My plan to lurk around the hotel bar to find a dinner companion didn't work out, so I took the iPad to the square to find a place, got The Diner which looks like any diner in America but serves a pilgrim menu. I was into the main course when three pilgrims wandered in so I gestured and made room. Marietta and Henri from west France, and J-something from Quebec who moves about like me, so we've been hopscotching one for two days. Glad I did.
I was using my GPS for mileage, so the 12th was 10.3 miles.

There was lots of noise outside all night, which didn't help my sleeping at all. I lay down about 8:30 and woke at 11:35, thinking "I slept pretty well." Ha. Then I was up at 5:00, packed and sorted, and at 6:30 and I was tired but afraid of oversleeping.

At breakfast, I met a couple of women from Finland, and during the day we passed each other on and off. I never saw them again, though.

At the Hotel Eslava

Minions!

I left at 7:30, with the hordes of pilgrims leaving Pamplona. It's another start to the Camino Francés, my route, as well as the place a different route joins up. I passed the Citadel, which might have been fun to look at, and I was too lazy/tired to go a couple of blocks off route to get a sello from the porter at the Universidad de Navarre.

Leaving Pamplona

Somewhere around here Linda&Tim passed me. They were at a cafe in Cizur Minor, and bought me a cafe con leche. I didn't much like it, but later got really addicted. It certainly beat trying to get a decent cup of black coffee.

Then we started climbing toward the Alto del Perdon.  I was walking slower than most, but passed an old guy with a cane.  "Buen Camino!" I said. "BUEN CAMINO!!" he shouted back. This gave me a smile. I could hear him greeting others for a long way. I wonder if he made it to the top! He certainly was cheerful!

There goes the road...

Dead Sunflowers

Looking Back

Coming Up

I didn't usually stop at rest areas. I never took my shoes off, on the theory that I would never be able to get them back on*, and I rarely sat down, on the theory that it would be really hard to get back up. *I had toe sock liners (after greasing my feet), wool socks, then the shoes.

I found a geocache, my first Spanish one, near Guendolain.

I stopped at the Iglesia San Andres in Zariquiegui. I got a stamp and wanted to leave a donation, but the caretaker insisted I light a candle for my euro.

Rest Area

Iglesia de San Andres in Zariquiegui

And continuing on.  My GPS batteries died. I had a spare set with me, that was also dead (as was another pair in my luggage. Should have checked before I left!) Also, the pole loosened. I had figured out why I brought my Swiss Army knife by this time, and managed to tighten the pole successfully.  I broke a thumbnail getting the screwdriver out, of course.

Finally, at the Alta del Perdon, where the power company put up metal statues of pilgrims through the years. "Where the way of the wind meets the Way of the stars."

"They say that when the pilgrims reached the summit they obtained forgiveness for their sins and their spiritual health was guaranteed the rest of the route in the event of their death."

So there's that.

A French guy at the top was enjoying the wind. A Bicigrino (bicycle pilgrim) wondered why my bag was so small. A woman said to me she admired my style. "What, walking two feet and stopping to puff and pant?" "No, your skirt." (It's actually a skort.) I guess I was known during the first part of the walk as the pilgrim in a skirt.

Alta del Perdon

Pilgrims

Then I started down the steep slope on the other side. I got to talking to a guy I'd been passing and being passed by along the way. This is Michael from Santa Cruz, about Roni's age. Newly moved to Santa Cruz because his wife got a job there. We saw each other all along the way, and even his last day in Santiago. I really regret not getting his email information.

The way to go down a steep road is to zigzag.  Michael suggested a zipline would be great.

I had lunch in Uterga (a spinach and bacon salad). It was supposed to be only 4 kilometers from the top, but this was a LOOOOOOONG 4K! Graffiti on the signs agreed with me. I was hungry and in sore need of a potty stop.

And down, steeply!

The longest 2 miles in the world!

More People to Pass Me

Camino del Perdon

Spinach and Bacon Salad

Iglesia de La Asuncion, Uterga

697 km

I took a detour to Eunate*, a 12th century Templar church, which I'd seen in Terry's pictures and wanted to see for myself. It wasn't open until 5:00 but I could see the outside, at least. There were fields of tomatoes, red peppers, asparagus, corn, and vineyards.  I was seeing them for Rich. (I talked to him a lot.)
*you know, when I was telling people I didn't walk the full 500 miles, I forgot the detours I took to sightsee. Still not the full 500, but closer than the 430 miles I've been claiming.

Peppers

Asparagus!

Eunate

Eunate

The way back to the Way was quite scenic. I went through Obanos. Then near the outskirts of Puente de la Reina, there were the Biarritz people with some Aussies who didn't know artichokes or pomegranates or prickly pear. I was able to tell them what all these crops were.

Obanos Plaza with San Juan Bautista Church

My Room

The Hotel Jaque is both a hotel and albergue. The wifi was awful, at least until the morning. Dinner was at a group table, which was nice, and the salad and dessert courses were self-serve. I sat with Tim&Linda, Terry from Germany, Lena from Italy, and two Aussies. Before that I'd done my laundry at the albergue. (You pay for the tokens that run the machines. I sat in the alburgue common room and this is where I discovered the wifi wasn't working. Quite upsetting, as with the 9-hour time difference Sunday (evening in Spain, morning on the West Coast) was the only time I could FaceTime my kids.)

~16.5 miles, making 44.2 to here.

my FB entry:
Puente de Reina, a bit over 16 miles in 9 and a half hours. ( My GPS batteries died when I reached here, the Alto del Perdon, so I couldn't look for the cache up here. I was carrying spares, but they were dead too... Either I had already changed them some time ago, or I've been carrying them too long.). So I have to figure on the guidebook mileage. Started at 0745, with lots of people. I actually passed some. Stopped for coffee and a snack at one village, and then started up. Partway I found my Spanish geocache! Then up and up and up and up to this spot. I was hoping the rain would hold off so I could get an iPad picture. This is where a thirsty pilgrim was tempted by the Devil to deny God, and he could have a drink. The pilgrim withstood temptation so St. James came and gave him a drink with a scallop shell. Now there's a wind farm up here and the company put up these statues.
The trip down is worse than the trip up, very steep and rocky. When I was telling someone about my broken pole the other day they said "you can tighten the screw." Duh. So when this one began to fail I pulled out my Swiss Army knife ( there is a reason I brought it!) and broke my thumbnail to the quick trying to get the screwdriver out, finally pried it up with my nail clippers, tightened the screw and it's fine. Oops.
I had a great spinach salad for lunch in Utrega, which was the longest 4k away from the summit I've ever seen. I went to see Eunate, an octagonal church which wasn't open and I didn't want to wait, and so to here.
One woman said, as she passed me " I admire your style." "What, walking two steps and stopping two minutes?" "No, you're hiking in a skirt." They, the skorts, are comfortable and easy to clean. Everything else, not so much. So I'm currently sitting in the alberge connected to the hotel doing my laundry.
This was the first what I would call "normal" day... and I spent much of it dreading the next day and the Alta del Perdon, no matter how much I told myself "sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof." I had two things I wanted to do, to see Pamplona Cathedral and to go to Mass in St. Fermin. The last I chickened out of, which is another regret from the Camino. If I were to go back, I'd chance going out at night. For one thing, it wasnt dark! That part of Spain is north of Sacramento, and so days were longer, at least till the equinox.

OK, it is tinnitis, the roaring in my ears. I wondered if it was my local traffic or something in the house making the noise, but I figured I'd learn that for sure in Spain.

Everything hurt when I woke at 0150, and I had a nosebleed. (I'm just glad it didn't happen on the planes!) I remembered that I'd packed Ibuprofen and took one, which helped me get back to sleep. There was thunder at 0520!  Breakfast wasn't until 8. Also, (still new to the system) I was surprised about having to pay for dinner last night.  I chatted with the host and told him how much I liked the place, had they refurbished it themselves? Yes, and it was a lot of work.  I found, along the Way, that I really liked the Casas Rurales like this. You can see the people had planned for years and had worked hard for their hostels, and they were very proud of them.

It was raining. I tried out my new rain system, with the poncho wrapped around the stuff in the backpack, and the raincoat pockets protecting sensitive stuff. I refined this a bit, but I had the main bits down. I started off and was busy tinkering with zippers and things and almost got lost, starting down the road when I heard a shout behind me.. "CAMINO!" This guy was pointing to the left. Oops.

I actually passed someone along the path, which hardly ever happened, especially at the start of the trip.  Then I stopped at a cafe in Zurain (still hadn't figured out the coffee, unfortunately). I noticed a charging cord left in an outlet. The guy I passed sat at my table and we chatted some. When he mentioned his CPAP I said "are you Rene?" (who I "knew" from the Facebook Camino page) and he was! (He had told me his name, but I didn't hear it properly.)

La Parada de Zuriain

Rene Gamache

I continued on after about 20 minutes, and passed the first of many memorials for a pilgrim who died along the way. Then I took a steep turn to Zabaldika (so much for the geocache, it was on the lower road.) I stopped at the church and forgot to leave a donation. Argh. A nice Sister of the Sacred Heart showed me the church and stamped my credential, and let me leave a post-it prayer at the crucifix.

Fin de Camino

Zabaldika

Iglesia de San Esteban, Zabaldika

Post-it Notes

Back to the main trail, and there was a guy in the woods selling stuff. I bought a banana and a bottle of water (which I can use for my wine at the wine fountain.)

It wasn't too far from there to the scenic turnoff along the river to Pamplona, but I wasn't sure that's where I was, so I crossed the Puente de Arre and continued along the main road. (If I had looked at the guidebook, I'd have known better.) This gets into a number of suburbs, cars, sidewalks. At one point I was walking along a straight sidewalk, and hadn't seen a camino sign for a couple of blocks. Panic! (There hadn't been a turnoff, but I needed my security blanket.) So I spied a woman and asked "¿Camino?" and she assured me I was OK. After awhile, the signs appeared again, and then I saw Pamplona Cathedral.

Yeah, missed my chance.

Bicigrino Crossing

Fountain

Camino Sign

Pamplona Cathedral

It was still a long way. I sat at the Puente de Magdalena, and ate my banana, and used one of my doggie bags for the trash till I found a garbage can.  Then over the bridge and through the pilgrim's gate (I don't know what the red paint was for, probably a protest of some sort) and to the Cathedral. The square in front of it reminded me of Rheims, for some reason. The gentlemen in suits are likely there for a wedding... I saw bits of at least four today. Fortunately, however, the Cathedral was open.

Puente de la Magdalena

Pilgrim&apos;s Gate

Cathedral de Santa Maria de Real

I paid the fee (cheaper for pilgrims) and wandered around in the cathedral taking pictures of altars and statues and windows.  Carlos III and Leonara de Trastamara, monarchs of Navarre, are buried here in a very ornate tomb. The choir stairs are beautiful.  And I always love cloisters.

Carlos III and Leonara de Trastamara

Choir Stairs

Cloisters

When I left I took care to get on the proper street. It's a long, mostly straight street to the other side (west) of the old city where I was to turn to get to my hotel. I passed a pediluvium, a foot-washing store. I could have used it later in the walk, but never saw another. I passed City Hall. Down the street, a mime tried to stop me, but I walked around him.  Then, as I was opposite San Saturnino, the street was packed waiting for the newlyweds to emerge. And on I went to a right turn down a narrow street to the hotel.

Pediluvium

You Are Not in Spain or France

Pamplona Street

Casa Consistoriale

Wedding Car

I Wish them Well.

When I got to the hotel, there was a sour old woman behind the desk and she made me wait until her son(?) who spoke some English, was able to tell me where my room was. I came downstairs at one point to see if I'd left my pole in the lobby, and she couldn't help me. I found it in the room when I went back up.

After my shower I went exploring in the area. I'd have stopped in San Fermin except they  were having a wedding, and the Convento Recoletas, on the same side of the street as the hotel, about a block away, was also having a wedding.  Instead of throwing rice (or bubbles, or whatever) they set off firecrackers.  I wandered out on the overlook, and over the road, and into a big park.  Very nice.  Then back to the room, and when I looked out at the alley/street the hotel is on, I felt dubious about going out to Mass. As I said above, however, I could have... it was light until about 9 and also the street is well-lit.  I have a number of regrets about my trip, and this is one.

San Fermin Church.

Leftover from a Wedding
Bridge over the Road
View from my Room

I went to a small cafe and ordered a tortilla con jambon (ham) and this is where I discovered how special the tortilla two days ago was.  Back in my room (I didn't take a picture!) I discovered a blister on my bunion. Eek!

-----
My FB post:
Pamplona: 10.3 miles in about 6 hours. I started the day with a nosebleed, then forgot to take the second Ibuprofen I'd put out to get me through the day. I nearly got lost first thing, but someone called me back. I actually passed someone, and found out later it was Rene Gamache, who has been posting on the Septmber Camino forum, and who has a friend (relative?) who knows Vince, Bernadette, and Karen. I took a detour to go to the church at Zabaldika which is lovely. I saw the option for the riverside walk into Pamplona, but wasn't sure that was what it was, so I went into the city of Burlada and the Calle Mayor. At one spot I had gone about a quarter mile without seeing any arrows, and asked a passing lady "Camino?" And I was OK, and shortly after that it was well marked. I had bought a banana and some water from a vendor in the hills. About 1:30 I realized I was starving so had the banana and a trail mix bar, outside the city walls of Pamplona.
I took another detour and toured the cathedral, then finally got here to the Hotel Eslava. The first picture is a view from my window, then down the street towards the church where I will probably go tonight, if I get up the courage to go out at night, and the third picture is along the city walls where the road goes through.
It rained most of the day, but this time I figured out how to protect everything and still live. The Gore-tex jacket has deep pockets for my GPS and my camera, and when I zip it up it can fit over my waist pack. I put the iPad and journal into a plastic bag and then covered it with the poncho instead of wearing the poncho. The one problem was my neck pouch, with my passport, pilgrim's passport, credit cards, medical cards, and most of my money...Thursday I had had it covered with the poncho but it got a bit wet and my first pilgrim stamp got a little blurred. So I thought I'd wear it under my shirt, but then realized I'd sweat it wet. However, it fits fine, and deep, in the zip up jacket pocket, and came out fine and dry.
Tomorrow should be dry, maybe, but it's over 15 miles and a high pass, so I'm a bit nervous about it.
This was the first what I would call "normal" day... and I spent much of it dreading the next day and the Alta del Perdon, no matter how much I told myself "sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof." I had two things I wanted to do, to see Pamplona Cathedral and to go to Mass in St. Fermin. The last I chickened out of, which is another regret from the Camino. If I were to go back, I'd chance going out at night. For one thing, it wasnt dark! That part of Spain is north of Sacramento, and so days were longer, at least till the equinox.

OK, it is tinnitis, the roaring in my ears. I wondered if it was my local traffic or something in the house making the noise, but I figured I'd learn that for sure in Spain.

Everything hurt when I woke at 0150, and I had a nosebleed. (I'm just glad it didn't happen on the planes!) I remembered that I'd packed Ibuprofen and took one, which helped me get back to sleep. There was thunder at 0520!  Breakfast wasn't until 8. Also, (still new to the system) I was surprised about having to pay for dinner last night.  I chatted with the host and told him how much I liked the place, had they refurbished it themselves? Yes, and it was a lot of work.  I found, along the Way, that I really liked the Casas Rurales like this. You can see the people had planned for years and had worked hard for their hostels, and they were very proud of them.

It was raining. I tried out my new rain system, with the poncho wrapped around the stuff in the backpack, and the raincoat pockets protecting sensitive stuff. I refined this a bit, but I had the main bits down. I started off and was busy tinkering with zippers and things and almost got lost, starting down the road when I heard a shout behind me.. "CAMINO!" This guy was pointing to the left. Oops.

I actually passed someone along the path, which hardly ever happened, especially at the start of the trip.  Then I stopped at a cafe in Zurain (still hadn't figured out the coffee, unfortunately). I noticed a charging cord left in an outlet. The guy I passed sat at my table and we chatted some. When he mentioned his CPAP I said "are you Rene?" (who I "knew" from the Facebook Camino page) and he was! (He had told me his name, but I didn't hear it properly.)

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22529417515/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="La Parada de Zuriain"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5810/22529417515_36e61270e7_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="La Parada de Zuriain"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22533188935/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Rene Gamache"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5647/22533188935_72514157c9_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Rene Gamache"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

I continued on after about 20 minutes, and passed the first of many memorials for a pilgrim who died along the way. Then I took a steep turn to Zabaldika (so much for the geocache, it was on the lower road.) I stopped at the church and forgot to leave a donation. Argh. A nice Sister of the Sacred Heart showed me the church and stamped my credential, and let me leave a post-it prayer at the crucifix.

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22345139980/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Fin de Camino"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/716/22345139980_782041803d_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Fin de Camino"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22345345348/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Zabaldika"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/609/22345345348_ebe018129d_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Zabaldika"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22533046445/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Iglesia de San Esteban, Zabaldika"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5767/22533046445_8e1f6826cb_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Iglesia de San Esteban, Zabaldika"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22345273638/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Post-it Notes"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/771/22345273638_fd13623ed1_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Post-it Notes"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Back to the main trail, and there was a guy in the woods selling stuff. I bought a banana and a bottle of water (which I can use for my wine at the wine fountain.)

It wasn't too far from there to the scenic turnoff along the river to Pamplona, but I wasn't sure that's where I was, so I crossed the Puente de Arre and continued along the main road. (If I had looked at the guidebook, I'd have known better.) This gets into a number of suburbs, cars, sidewalks. At one point I was walking along a straight sidewalk, and hadn't seen a camino sign for a couple of blocks. Panic! (There hadn't been a turnoff, but I needed my security blanket.) So I spied a woman and asked "¿Camino?" and she assured me I was OK. After awhile, the signs appeared again, and then I saw Pamplona Cathedral.

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22544009021/in/album-72157660394546022/" title="Yeah, missed my chance."><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5789/22544009021_41460fd3e9_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Yeah, missed my chance."></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/21910053994/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Bicigrino Crossing"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5673/21910053994_691d721e43_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Bicigrino Crossing"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/21910012304/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Fountain"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5835/21910012304_68e9e504d5_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Fountain"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22519197602/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Camino Sign"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5727/22519197602_863bed0207_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Camino Sign"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/21909947354/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Pamplona Cathedral"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5653/21909947354_bb5f1e1c84_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Pamplona Cathedral"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

It was still a long way. I sat at the Puente de Magdalena, and ate my banana, and used one of my doggie bags for the trash till I found a garbage can.  Then over the bridge and through the pilgrim's gate (I don't know what the red paint was for, probably a protest of some sort) and to the Cathedral. The square in front of it reminded me of Rheims, for some reason. The gentlemen in suits are likely there for a wedding... I saw bits of at least four today. Fortunately, however, the Cathedral was open.

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/21909925814/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Puente de la Magdalena"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/580/21909925814_7a9d8b7d0d_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Puente de la Magdalena"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22506582136/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Pilgrim&#x27;s Gate"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5639/22506582136_9cd92001d2_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Pilgrim&#x27;s Gate"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22518990512/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Cathedral de Santa Maria de Real"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5648/22518990512_f6dfca2ce2_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Cathedral de Santa Maria de Real"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

I paid the fee (cheaper for pilgrims) and wandered around in the cathedral taking pictures of altars and statues and windows.  Carlos III and Leonara de Trastamara, monarchs of Navarre, are buried here in a very ornate tomb. The choir stairs are beautiful.  And I always love cloisters.

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22344670268/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Carlos III and Leonara de Trastamara"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5651/22344670268_684af9c141_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Carlos III and Leonara de Trastamara"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22345312219/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Choir Stairs"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5657/22345312219_85d864ca11_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Choir Stairs"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22344416198/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Cloisters"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/679/22344416198_4265c1b268_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Cloisters"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

When I left I took care to get on the proper street. It's a long, mostly straight street to the other side (west) of the old city where I was to turn to get to my hotel. I passed a pediluvium, a foot-washing store. I could have used it later in the walk, but never saw another. I passed City Hall. Down the street, a mime tried to stop me, but I walked around him.  Then, as I was opposite San Saturnino, the street was packed waiting for the newlyweds to emerge. And on I went to a right turn down a narrow street to the hotel.

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/21909771914/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Pediluvium"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/643/21909771914_bb37dee743_n.jpg" width="240" height="320" alt="Pediluvium"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22344040310/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="You Are Not in Spain or France"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5755/22344040310_e010825202_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="You Are Not in Spain or France"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/21910781153/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Pamplona Street"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/606/21910781153_5e9a2763bc_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Pamplona Street"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/21909220504/in/album-72157670096045734/lightbox/" title="Casa Consistoriale"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/681/21909220504_f7b409527e_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Casa Consistoriale"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22531957495/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Wedding Car"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/764/22531957495_0e1e19f8a7_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Wedding Car"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22543063421/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="I Wish them Well."><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/602/22543063421_15c2044840_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="I Wish them Well."></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

When I got to the hotel, there was a sour old woman behind the desk and she made me wait until her son(?) who spoke some English, was able to tell me where my room was. I came downstairs at one point to see if I'd left my pole in the lobby, and she couldn't help me. I found it in the room when I went back up.

After my shower I went exploring in the area. I'd have stopped in San Fermin except they  were having a wedding, and the Convento Recoletas, on the same side of the street as the hotel, about a block away, was also having a wedding.  Instead of throwing rice (or bubbles, or whatever) they set off firecrackers.  I wandered out on the overlook, and over the road, and into a big park.  Very nice.  Then back to the room, and when I looked out at the alley/street the hotel is on, I felt dubious about going out to Mass. As I said above, however, I could have... it was light until about 9 and also the street is well-lit.  I have a number of regrets about my trip, and this is one.

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22505868606/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="San Fermin Church."><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/765/22505868606_b0c851d081_n.jpg" width="240" height="320" alt="San Fermin Church."></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22344093088/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Leftover from a Wedding"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5777/22344093088_6a4e11a2ff_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Leftover from a Wedding"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22531767205/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="Bridge over the Road"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5809/22531767205_cf7231eac6_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="Bridge over the Road"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/fossilfreak/22305388979/in/album-72157670096045734/" title="View from my Room"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/1/777/22305388979_a6896cd08d_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="View from my Room"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

I went to a small cafe and ordered a tortilla con jambon (ham) and this is where I discovered how special the tortilla two days ago was.  Back in my room (I didn't take a picture!) I discovered a blister on my bunion. Eek!

-----
My FB post:
Pamplona: 10.3 miles in about 6 hours. I started the day with a nosebleed, then forgot to take the second Ibuprofen I'd put out to get me through the day. I nearly got lost first thing, but someone called me back. I actually passed someone, and found out later it was Rene Gamache, who has been posting on the Septmber Camino forum, and who has a friend (relative?) who knows Vince, Bernadette, and Karen. I took a detour to go to the church at Zabaldika which is lovely. I saw the option for the riverside walk into Pamplona, but wasn't sure that was what it was, so I went into the city of Burlada and the Calle Mayor. At one spot I had gone about a quarter mile without seeing any arrows, and asked a passing lady "Camino?" And I was OK, and shortly after that it was well marked. I had bought a banana and some water from a vendor in the hills. About 1:30 I realized I was starving so had the banana and a trail mix bar, outside the city walls of Pamplona.
I took another detour and toured the cathedral, then finally got here to the Hotel Eslava. The first picture is a view from my window, then down the street towards the church where I will probably go tonight, if I get up the courage to go out at night, and the third picture is along the city walls where the road goes through.
It rained most of the day, but this time I figured out how to protect everything and still live. The Gore-tex jacket has deep pockets for my GPS and my camera, and when I zip it up it can fit over my waist pack. I put the iPad and journal into a plastic bag and then covered it with the poncho instead of wearing the poncho. The one problem was my neck pouch, with my passport, pilgrim's passport, credit cards, medical cards, and most of my money...Thursday I had had it covered with the poncho but it got a bit wet and my first pilgrim stamp got a little blurred. So I thought I'd wear it under my shirt, but then realized I'd sweat it wet. However, it fits fine, and deep, in the zip up jacket pocket, and came out fine and dry.
Tomorrow should be dry, maybe, but it's over 15 miles and a high pass, so I'm a bit nervous about it.